Alaska #4

Hubbard Glacier. It calved a few times while we watched, sending giant plumes of water into the air. Bergs of blue ice littered the sea around us. Unlike retreating Mendenhall, this glacier is growing like a weed. It groans and explodes with massive, internal movements, sounding like thunder...or shotgun blasts...or like the brittle bones of old, frozen ghosts leaning over the glacier to see what that boat is doing, just sitting there...


We disembarked in Seward and bade farewell to the Statendam and all its surreal luxury. From there, we boarded the Alaskan Railway coach to Anchorage. A very scenic trip. The only way to take a photo in clean space (not through a window) was to lean (foolishly) out of the jointed space between railcars...as I did often.


Anchorage. A seal, sculpted in whalebone by an Alaskan Native artist with the most infectious smile...We arrived just in time to dig the insanely huge downtown "Saturday Market," a weekly fair held in Buttress Park. This event attracts thousands of craft people, musicians, and food vendors (I didn't try the halibut quesadilla, but reindeer sausage was fantastic).


Anchorage. Still at the Saturday Market. A fur vendor and her two companions.


Anchorage. 3rd Ave & E Street. I found that standing polar bear DEEPLY DISTURBING. Then it handed me a coupon, good for 10% off my next purchase of trinkets at Polar Bear Gifts' two convenient locations... An hour later, with souvenir Alaska shotglass and bobble-head puffin in the bag, we boogied back to the room to pack.

A fantastic trip, fueled by the aforementioned Alaskan Summer Ale and the VERY EXCELLENT Raven's Brew coffee. Sitka and Juneau were easy favorites, and we're already planning the return trip--probably involving a rented vehicle and a plunge inland to Denali and north to the arctic coast. But that's later. Now is now. We return to DC and its humid suburbs, to put on our Responsible Skins again. (east-coast time is what, again...?)

Alaska #3

Haines, AK. Population 2800 but feels like twelve. One of the locals gives me the cold eye, in this very pleasant, quiet town. The ship seems weirdly out of place here, as do the Clean Laundry People that seep out of it and onto the land like a cartoon oil-spill...


Back on the boat after a day of prowling Haines, and my Alaskan Brewing Company passport is finally full of stamps. I get a free hat. I have worked hard to achieve this. I get a free hat. Yes. The Summer Ale made it a most comfortable quest.


Lido deck, Statendam. One of my favorite shots of the trip, and a totally lucky capture. Not sure what the diva kid is upset about, jeez...turn around & dig that mountain!

Part 4 here.

Alaska #2 - Juneau

Evidence of "spirited" locals, as posted across the street from the Alaska State Capital Building.


The Mt. Roberts Tramway rises approx. 1900 feet above the docks at a very steep grade. There were about five (!!!!!) cruise ships in that day. Downtown Juneau was overrun with Clean Laundry People. We hastened up the mountain for lunch & a wee hike...


We ended our day in Juneau with a visit to a magnificent Salmon Bake, with some 200 others. Screw the king crab: THIS is the ultimate Alaskan dining experience. I found this youngster looking rather concerned at the salmon on the fire. Everything was perfect. Delicious. Salmon, cornbread, beans, & beer under the insomniac skies of Alaska... One of the peak experiences of the entire trip.


After the meal, we went prowling through the nearby forest, along this stream...found this amazing tree, and a bath of deep green color that would never reproduce in photos...

Part 3 here.

Alaska trip, #1

Still docked: a portion of the Vancouver skyline as seen from the deck of our new home, the ms Statendam. Just like in DC, the old architecture stands obstinately against the new...



Atrium fountain depicting a certain lesbian intrigue (center & left mermaid hold hands proudly, while center secretly embraces right mermaid upon the hip...something happening there, albeit none of my damn business), Statendam




Saxman Native Village, Ketchikan. Tlingit totem poles just outside the Clan House.



Creek Street, Ketchikan. During gold-rush days, this was a row of brothel houses. Now, those buildings are occupied by eager shopkeepers peddling all manner of tourist flotsam.

A charming town. The lazy croak of ravens is everywhere. Their wings slap overhead like wet, black towels. There is no spot in Ketchikan beyond the gaze of a dozen ravens.

Part 2 here.